Could you use some advice on manufactured home repair or upkeep? We may have already helped someone with a similar dilemma! Take a look at these questions submitted by manufactured home owners and the helpful advice from our claim experts who are extremely knowledgeable about manufactured home construction.

Current subjects:

> Hot Water Heater
> Carpet Replacement
> Exterior Painting
> Insulating Between Ceiling and Roof
> Roof-Over

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Hot Water Heater

Q. My hot water heater (5 years old) is set at maximum temperature (150) and it still won't make hot water. Is there an element test I could do to see if I need to buy a whole new unit, or just replace the element?

A. I am not aware of an element tester, but that does not mean there isn't one. But the cost to replace the element should not be very expensive. You may want to drain the tank before you go to the trouble to buy new parts.

If you have hard or rusty water, there may be sediment build up at the bottom of your tank that is inhibiting the element's heating capabilities. Even water softeners can affect sludge build up in water heaters. If you do determine the element may be the problem, after you remove it, take it to your local plumbing store and have them inspect it for you. They should be able to diagnose the trouble.

For more information, go to our article on water heater maintenance.

Carpet Replacement

Q. We would like to replace our carpeting. We're concerned about where the house joins together. Can you lay linoleum over that? Do you have to take special precaution? If you cannot use linoleum, what would you recommend? It is about 600 square feet.

A. If you notice, typically on double wide homes, with a marriage wall, carpeting covers the joint, often because of the fact that it is rolled up while the home is being transported in two pieces, then the carpet is rolled out over the joint seam when the home is put together. Vinyl flooring is laid while the home is being built and is placed under the walls and is loose laid, which means it is secured only around the perimeter, which is under the walls. Thus it would be difficult to roll sheet vinyl back and then lay it down when the home is set up and put together.

I do not see why you could not lay sheet goods down over the marriage line. HOWEVER, the big concern is the marriage line. How level is the home now? Can you feel the gap between the two halves under the carpet? That would be your concern. If you chose to lay sheet goods, you want to make sure the home is very secure and level. Once the home has been shown to be level a good underlayment should be installed over the existing subfloor and the marriage line gap. The vinyl could then be laid.

Another thought may be to lay a wood-type laminate floor. There are several makes out there and several can be snapped together and do not need to be secured to the subfloor by nails or glue. It is kind of a 'free floating' floor. This would allow some movement, should the home become out of level.

When installing either item, there will need to be a little give in the material to allow for contraction and expansion. It is suggested when laying laminate flooring that there should be a 1/4" gap around the room to allow this expansion and contraction. New trim may be necessary when installing the new floors.

Explore the options in different types of floors and I recommend to run your ideas by your local home improvement center and if you know any, a mobile home dealer, just to get their thoughts. Again, your concern is that marriage line gap. Good luck!

Exterior Painting

Q. I have been wanting to paint my mobile home for some time now. The person who owned it before me painted it an unattractive gray color. Is there some way I can remove this paint down to the original color? If not, what kind of paint should I use to cover it?

A. I'm guessing your siding is aluminum or steel. Before you paint, it is best to rub the siding with paint thinner. This may not remove the paint but it will remove dirt and grease and give you a smoother surface for the new paint to adhere to.

The type of paint you choose should be either oil-based or water-based latex. With an oil base paint you will first apply a zinc chromate primer. For latex you do not need a primer, but probably two coats of paint.

Have a question about painting your manufactured home's interior? Our article may help.

Insulation

Q. I have a 1987 singlewide. There isn't much space between the ceiling and the roof, but is there a way to get insulation into that space? My electric bills are so high in the summer, and summer here lasts about 6 months.

A. I have a couple of thoughts, but there is no real easy way to add more insulation into the roofing cavity without taking down the ceiling panels or taking apart the roof.

If your roof is metal, one solution, albeit a costly one, is to put a roof over on the home, either rubber or aluminum pans. When they are installed, often sheet foam insulation is put between the new roof and the old roof and will add additional resale value.

If the roof is metal, be sure to use a white or silver color roof coating to reflect the heat rather than absorb it.

If you have a shingled roof, how many vents do you have which allow the heat to escape? Do you have an overhang and soffit/eave vents? More vents may be a solution or a continuous ridge vent. From the inside, you can pull down ceiling panels and re-insulate, but many manufactured homes have blown-in insulation, and when the panels are taken down it be quite messy.

Find out what type of ceiling insulation you have. Because if you add more, you do not want to hinder the original insulation R-value. There is a spray foam insulation on the market, which expands when applied. But there is an art to the application.

You may want to contact an insulation installer. If your ceiling has blown insulation, there are companies that can come to your home and add more. If you have blown-in insulation, the installer may be able to detach light fixtures and spray insulation up into the cavity.

An unusual idea might be to add a drop ceiling using a grid work and putting insulation in between the old and new ceiling. BUT now your ceiling is lower and the light fixtures need to be dropped also.

Roof-Over

Q. I'm dealing with a 30-year old mobile home. I have a lot of shingles and plywood, and wondering if I can install them. I'm not sure whether the walls can handle it. The exterior walls are made of 2"x2" and in some places 2"x3" Can you tell me what I have to do in order to install the shingles? Do I have to to put 2x4 in exterior walls and on the roof?

A. If your home is 30 years old, I do not recommend that you add roof decking, felt and shingles right to the existing roof of the home. It will not be able to withstand the weight...and if it does, and you are in a snow belt during the winter, problems will occur.

I suggest that you build a free standing roof over. You will need to purchase 4x4 posts for support of the roof. The roofover is built around and above the mobile home. Picture a rectangular gazebo or like a shelter at a park with picnic tables under it. The 4x4 posts hold all the weight of the roof over. Sink the posts in concrete. You can buy trusses, enclose the ends and I have seen some really nice set-ups. You can add a better pitch to the roof for drainage and snow slide off. Venting can be pushed up through the new structure.

I do not think you want to take out the old studs and replace them. They are probably 16" or 24" on center. That is a lot of work. Either taking down the siding or interior walls.

I have seen freestanding roofovers where the owner then uses that to completely cocoon the home, using more insulation, and residing the home, giving the old home a new look.

See our detailed article on shingle repair for more information.